Yup. You read that right. Christmas music. In the US, we stop hearing Christmas music pretty much at 11:59 PM on December 25. But, here, Christmas is celebrated on January 7 or 12, depending upon the Christian sect. Hearing Christmas music while in the Holy Land is a real treat.
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| Chapel of the Ascension |
On to our travels (the Pilgrimage). On Sunday, January 11, we started the day with a visit to the Mount of Olives. Jesus stayed on the Mount of Olives during his visits to Jerusalem. It is where He wept. He rode the colt/donkey from the Mount of Olives into Jerusalem on Palm Sunday. The Garden of Gethsemane is located at the base of the Mount. And, Jesus is believed to have ascended to Heaven from the Mount of Olives.
The Chapel of the Ascension at the top. Built by the Crusaders, the chapel was taken over by the Muslims, who built the dome on top. Our guide told us that the Muslims believe that Jesus was a prophet, died, and ascended to heaven, but they don't believe He is the Messiah. This is, perhaps, the only place on this earth where Christians and Muslims can worship in the same chapel.
The chapel protects what is believed to be Jesus' footprint in the bedrock where He stood just before He ascended to Heaven.
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| Footprint of Jesus? |
The chapel protects what is believed to be Jesus' footprint in the bedrock where He stood just before He ascended to Heaven.
From the Mount of Olives, we can see into the Old City of Jerusalem. The gold dome is the Temple Mount. Just below is the wall for the Old City. Below the wall is a Muslim cemetery.
The most desired Jewish cemetery in the world is located on the Mount of Olives stretching from the top to the Garden of Gethsemane. The cemetery is below where we were standing and is not shown in this photo.
Our guide was going to take us along the Palm Sunday Road, but cold rain postponed our walk.
On to Beit Sahour and Bethlehem.
I was struck by how close Bethlehem is to Jerusalem. It is literally a 10 minute ride in the bus (mostly due to enormous traffic) and probably was less than an hour's journey by foot in Jesus' time.

Beit Sahour is the location of the Shepherds Field on which stands a chapel that is maintained by the Franciscans. It is a small, but beautiful chapel with scenes of the Angels visiting the Shepherds, the Nativity, and the rejoicing of the Shepherds after witnessing the birth of Jesus Christ. We did a reading, then song. The acoustics were phenomenal. From the chapel, we could look up to Bethlehem, probably just a 15 minute walk for shepherds in Jesus' time. I always had thought that the shepherds were VERY far away. But, they were actually quite close to Bethlehem.
Below the Chapel is a shepherd's cave. We all went inside to experience what life as a shepherd might have been in that time. Another reading and song, then we went outside to take in the view.
Below the cave are ruins from a Byzantine church and Monastery. From on top of the ruins, we could look below to see there are still shepherds tending their flocks. Jerusalem is on the other side of the small valley. The Old City is way on top of the hill. As mentioned, it looks like Bethlehem is about an hours' walk to the Old City.

We took the bus to Bethlehem, then walked to the Church of the Nativity. Along the way, we got to experience a bit of (attempted) American culture. For instance, the bus stopped at a terminal in which was a small sandwich and juice shop named "Hard Rock". The logo has a striking resemblance to the Hard Rock Cafe we know. We walked by "Stars & Bucks Cafe" with colors and logo similar to our well known Starbucks.
It was Sunday, so the Church of the Nativity was busy with services for the Catholics, Greek Orthodox, and Armenian Orthodox churches. They all share the same church.
The Church of the Nativity was constructed at the request of Helen, mother of Constantine, in 327 AD. Throughout all the conflict and wars in the area, the only damage has occurred due to time and earthquake (this area has very active earthquake faults).
The church is under renovation, so photos don't properly show the ornate beauty of this treasure.
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| The glass in the circle is believed to be the actual location where Mary gave birth to Jesus. |
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| Shrine in the Grotto below the Alter. The area that looks like a fireplace is in the photo to the right |

We exited the Grotto and went to the courtyard for reading and song.
Our guide told us that the Church of the Nativity is NOT the location where midnight mass is held and broadcast around the world. It is held in the Church of St. Catherine immediately adjacent. A service was being held in the cathedral, so we could not enter. But, I was able to get this photo through the window the back door.
On to lunch and some shopping (I'm so NOT excited). Ginger did good; just getting a couple of trinkets to remind us of our visit to the town of our Lord's birth.

About half way to the bottom of the valley is the church of Dominus Flevit, which means "The Lord Wept". This is a small church which is maintained by the Franciscans and is believed to be the site where Jesus wept. From the window behind the alter, you can see the Old City and the Temple Mount. We had a reading and sang.

The Garden of Gethsemane is near the bottom of the valley. In it stands olive trees that are as much as 3,000 years old, and still bearing fruit. Here is the 3,000 year old tree which was standing in Jesus' time. Did this tree see Jesus? Would Jesus have prayed under or near this tree? There is a fence that prevents one from touching the tree. I suppose this is to preserve the tree. I would imagine that anyone who comes to the Garden would want to touch this tree in hopes of making a connection to Christ.

Next to the Garden of Gethsemane is the Church of All Nations, a Catholic church that was rebuilt through the generosity and contributions of many nations. Each nation who contributed is shown in the gold inlaid ceilings.
At the base of the alter is a rock, believed to be the rock on which Jesus prayed in agony on the night of His betrayal, asking Peter to stay awake, and asked God if "this cup could be taken from me. Not as I will, but as You will".
How would I have reacted if we were with Jesus on the night of His betrayal? Would I have stayed awake? Probably not. I would have thought "Jesus, don't worry. All will be well." I doubt that I would have understood what he was going to experience, nor that I should cherish these last few moments with Him. Did Peter feel the same?
From the front of the Church of All Nations, we can see the wall of the Old City and the gate (see the two arches below the turret and now sealed off) where Jesus likely entered Jerusalem, both as King on the donkey and as an arrested prisoner about to be put to death.
Back to the hotel to relax, "fellowship hour", and dinner. Another exhausting and amazing day in the Holy Land.
More tomorrow.











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