LAST DAY IN JERUSALEM

On Saturday night, January 17, we bid goodbye to the last of our group of Pilgrims as they departed for the airport.  I had booked our flights separately from the tour company and, since it was MUCH less expensive to stay a couple of days, we were staying on until Monday night.  At the time I booked the flights, it seemed like a great idea.  We could take a day to see more of Jerusalem, then go on to Tel Aviv to stay at the beach.

On Sunday, January 18, we planned to get up and attend service at the Lutheran church in the Old City.  Although we got up in time, we were moving slowly, and did not get out of the hotel until it was too late.  Instead, we opted to "walk the wall" of the Old City of Jerusalem.

View from the rampart wall.  The gold dome is the Temple Mount.
High on the hill to the right is the Mount of Olives.
The unvegetated area in the upper right is the most coveted Jewish Cemetery.
On the other side of the ruins to the right of the wall are the Teaching Steps.

Damascus Gate into the Old City

We took in some views that we did not see before, then walked through the market.

When I booked the flights thinking it would be nice to have an extra couple of days on our own, I didn't take into account that we would be TIRED.  It had been 10 days of getting up early and seeing so many sites that they are now running together.  Did we get the Hebron Glass at the Sea of Galilee, or was it in Jerusalem?  (We finally determined it was at Jericho).  We needed some downtime.

Strolling through the market, we noticed the weather was getting colder, clouds were coming in, and we realized we were done.  All ruined out.  My mind could not absorb any more biblical and historical information/sites/experiences.  So, we went back to the hotel, got our bags, and boarded a taxi for Tel Aviv.

Sunset from our Tel Aviv hotel room

Our hotel was a pleasant surprise.  Next to the Mediterranean Sea, it is a small, but elegant hotel.  Our room overlooked the sea and was a fantastic place to enjoy a glass of wine while we watched the sun set into the ocean.







Buffeted out, we craved a restaurant with fresh fish....and someone to serve it.  The hotel desk attendant suggested Jessica, a quaint restaurant just a block from the hotel.  We got a bottle of wine and sea bass.  Fabulous.  The sign above the front window had some reflections that seemed appropriate for the moment.

Back to our room by 8 PM, and I was out.  Exhausted.  Finished.  

JERASH....ONE OF THE BEST PRESERVED ROMAN CITIES

Hadrian Gate, Jerash

About an hour drive north of Amman are the ruins from the city of Jerash.

Excavations have found inhabitants in this area in the Bronze Age, prior to 1200 BC.  In 106 AD, Jerash was made a part of the Decapolis, or "10 Cities" under Roman rule in the area.

As with all Roman cities of the time, the site contains a Theater, Hippodrome  for horse races and gladiators, temples, shopping areas, and elaborately fortified gates.

Panoramic View of the City of Jerash from the top of the Theater

Shopping Areas.
240 shops....and no Macy's?

Ginger in the Temple of Zeus

The Nymphaeum Fountain

The Hippodrome

Seven times Seven Step

Temple of Artemis, Goddess of Fertility

Mosaic in the floor of the Three Churches
(St George, Paul and Peter)

From 350 to 600 AD, a Christian community thrived here, with 13 churches being constructed.  Some had intricate mosaic floors.


It is striking to see how the Romans built their cities, and how many they built in this region.  At their zenith, the Romans were a powerful, complex, and surprisingly sophisticated empire.  We learned that this Roman city, as with many others in the region, was succeeded by the Byzantines, then the Muslims, then the Crusaders, and, ultimately, the Ottomans.

There is rich history in these areas.  Common themes in the nations who dominated the Arab regions: they controlled the water supplies, encouraged trade, and had mighty military machines.

After a couple of hours in Jerash, we had lunch at a FANTASTIC restaurant.  Although Ginger and I had had enough of buffets and food (we were eating much more than we do at home), we couldn't resist this one.  The bread was made from a pottery oven.  The house specialty is Musakhan, a thin bread wrapped chicken with unusual spices.  It was delicious!!!

Then, it was off to the Jordan/Israeli border, and a fond goodbye to Omar, our guide, and Mohammed, our driver.

We met with the guide and driver on the Israeli side, who took us to Jerusalem for our last night's stay at the Olive Tree Hotel.

PETRA

Friday, 1/16, we boarded the bus at 7:30 AM for the 3 hour drive to Petra.

Petra is heralded as one of the 7 wonders of the world.  It has been featured on Indiana Jones and other films.  It's a place that I have wanted to visit for many years.


The area around Petra was originally inhabited by the Edomites, the family of Esau.  The Edomites were mostly cave dwellers, and caves are found throughout the area.  Moses asked the Edomites for permission to cross their land, but was refused, causing the Israelites to go into the desert, or wilderness, and then come back to the promised land near Mt. Nebo.  It is believed that Aaron, brother of Moses, was buried here.  He is remembered in the Tomb of Aaron, high on the hill outside of Petra.  The Nabateans defeated the Edomites, establishing a rich trade center.  They controlled the water, creating an oasis in the desert.  The Nabateans worshiped Arab gods and are credited with carving the facades in the rocks.

The path entering Petra

The Treasury

From the Visitor Center, we walked through the small rock "gorges" and were met with the most famous facade, The Treasury.

Our guide told us that these facades were entrances to tombs rather than buildings, homes, and palaces.  The facades have Egyptian, Greek, and Roman influences.

Caves where inhabitants lived.  Our guide told us
the caves on the right were all one home,
probably a wealthy family.

Visitors could ride camels rather than walk
Note the caves in the background

Palace Tombs

In 106 AD, the Romans absorbed Petra into the Roman Empire.  Petra declines quickly as trade routes changed.  Earthquakes and invasions by Persians followed.  The last known inhabitants left the city around 650 AD.  It was largely unknown to the western world until the 1800's.  In October, 1917, Lawrence of Arabia led a revolt of the Arabs and Syrians against the Ottoman Empire in this area.






















Access to the site is unbelievably open.  We could climb most anywhere within the site and actually touch the facades.  Some tombs were open and we could walk in.

The vendors selling postcards, trinkets, camel rides, horse rides, etc. were so aggressive that it became irritating.  We had to learn to say NO as we saw them approach.  One young girl was so persistent with Ginger that she put a stack of postcards in her hand, saying it was a "gift", but then was waiting for Ginger to reciprocate with a "gift".  Ginger gave the postcards back.

Petra is Jordan's most visited site.  We felt is was a bit crowded, but our guide reminded us that this was the extreme low season for tourists.  We imagined what it would be like in the high season.... must be AWFUL.

After more than 4 hours, it was time to go.  For a couple of days before our arrival at Petra, storms had brought snow and rain, with the roads closed the day before.  Our guide wanted to make sure we could leave the area before more storms came in and potentially closed the roadways.

Back to the hotel, a tired group had dinner and retired early.  Tomorrow...Jerash........

JORDAN-MT NEBO AND THE MAP OF MADABA

On Thursday, January 16, we boarded the bus for the trip to Jordan.  Our group is now 12 rather than 34, which gives us a bit more flexibility on timing and experiencing the sites.  The border was only 40 minutes from Jerusalem, but would take us an hour to get through the crossing.  At the border, our Christian Palestinian-Israeli guide bid us farewell as he would not be joining us in Jordan.  Instead, we were met on the other side by a Christian Palestinian-Jordanian guide.  Omar is his given name, but his Christian name is Gabriel.  He said he responds to either name.

Waiting in the bus for our guide at the Jordanian customs office, a policeman took interest in Ginger.  He playfully put his head in the window, then came to the bus door and brought her a flower.  Then, he disappeared into the Duty Free shop, returning with three chocolate bars.  His english is non-existent, but we managed to be able to ask if we could take a photo, which he obliged.


Geez...Camels kissing her.  Jordanian officers hitting on her.  With all this attention, I'm concerned that Ginger may decide to stay......



On to Mt. Nebo.  The bus was having engine problems.  At a checkpoint stop, the Jordanian army came to the rescue.  Several of them worked on the engine, adding water and oil.  We were on our way.

Mt. Nebo is the place where Moses was allowed to look at the promised land, but he could not enter.  It is also believed that Moses dies and God buried him here.

From Pisgah, the top of Mt. Nebo, the views extend to Jerusalem and Bethlehem in the west, The Sea of Galilee to the north, and the Dead Sea to the south west. Clouds were obscuring the views.  But, we were able to take in the moment.  How did Moses feel, leading tribes of Israel for 40 years in the desert, reaching the promised land, but not being able to enter and enjoy the fruits of his life's work?  Our society teaches us that we will be rewarded for our work.  How would I feel if I worked toward a goal my entire life, then, just as the goal was to be realized, I was prevented from enjoying it?  Moses had more faith than I think I could have.  (Maybe that's something to work on).

The Basilica of the Memorial of Moses, a church honoring Moses, was originally built as a Byzantine church and monastery in the 4th century AD.   It was under renovation, so we could not go inside.  A small room held relics that have been excavated from the area along with models of the mountain and information.  We are in the land of mosaics, and we will find that mosaic artistry is everywhere.  The photo on the right is a mosaic that has been found in the Byzantine chapel.


Next stop was a mosaic factory and shop, where we had to stop to see how mosaics are made and (of course) shop.

River Jordan is at the top with
Jericho shown as the large building below the river

On to Madaba,  At St George Church is found the remnants of a detailed mosaic map of the Holy Land.  It is in the floor of the church, and likely encompassed approx. half of the floor area.  This map has helped archaeologists and biblical scholars confirm many of the locations for events from the Bible.  Here are photos of portions of the map.

The old city of Jerusalem is shown in the circular area

After another event filled day, we arrived at our hotel in Amman, Jordan.  The Regency Palace is the nicest hotel we have stayed in during this Pilgrimage.   I found it odd that we had to put our bags through a scanner similar to the airports and we are traveling with "Tourism Policeman".  While we have felt very safe in all areas we have traveled, this is the first time we have been accompanied by a policeman.  Our guide said that Americans believe the area to be unsafe, so the Jordanian government is showing us that it is a safe area, and having a policeman accompany us.  Hm.  I think I would feel more safe if the policeman was NOT there.  But, he is a very nice young man.

HOLOCAUST MUSEUM, CHURCH OF ST JOHN, AND GARDEN TOMB

On our last day with the first group, we began with a visit to the Holocaust Museum.  Photos were not allowed inside the museum.  We had only an hour, which was NOT enough.

Entrance to the Holocaust History Museum

Inside the museum were numerous exhibits intended to chronicle not only the plight of the Jewish people in Europe prior to and during World War II, but the focus was on stories of individual people.  It puts a personal touch on the atrocities that were inflicted on the Jews.  I have heard of Auschwitz, and imagined the horror.  But, this exhibit touches deeper in my heart.  Through the photos and diaries and possessions of those who were tortured and killed simply for their beliefs and heritage, it became personal for me.  If that was the intent of this exhibit, it worked.  It is unbelievable that this type of prejudice has taken place in recent times.  Yet, we continue to see it around us in our lifetimes... Saddam Hussein, ISIS, Sierra Leon, Afghanistan, and many, many other examples... even the persecution of blacks in the US.  When are we, as a human population, going to live in peace as Jesus taught us?  It was a thought provoking, somber bordering on depressing experience.

Shrine above where John the Baptist
is believed to have been born.

Next was a visit to the church of St John Ba Harim (St John of the Mountains).  John the Baptist was born to Zacharias and Elizabeth, who are believed to have lived in this area.  Mary visited Elizabeth after the angels announced to Mary that she would give birth to Jesus.

The church contained many paintings honoring John and his parents, including the Song of Zacharias, Jesus being baptized by John, John's imprisonment, and his beheading.

This was another place for reflection on the sacrifices made by John and Jesus for their beliefs, and for our sins.

Ginger touching the place where John the Baptist
is believed to have been born.

Our last visit for the day was to the Garden Tomb and site where the crucifixion is believed to have taken place.

Skull Hill.  From the rock formations,you can make out 
what seems to be the eyes and chin of a skull

In the early 1800's, a German theologian suggested the notion that the crucifixion took plus underneath an area known as "Skull Hill" rather than in the Church of the Holy Sepulchre.  This idea took hold in Great Britain, resulting in the formation of the Garden Tomb Association in 1893, and purchase of the property in 1894.

Rich man's tomb.  Could this be the tomb of
Joseph of Arimathea?

The bible makes reference to "the place of the skull".  We viewed the rock formations, walked the garden, and visited the inside of the tomb.  As our guide walked us through the area, citing references from the bible, it seems plausible that this could be the place where Jesus was crucified, placed in a tomb, and resurrected.


As I took it all in, I wondered:  Am I looking at the place in which Jesus was crucified?  At this moment, am I one of the onlookers to His death and resurrection?

Communion in the chapel at the Garden Tomb

We then worshipped and had communion in a small chapel inside the rock of the garden.

It was a very moving and spiritual time.









Later, we had dinner, then bid "farewell" to 30 of our fellow Pilgrims, wishing them "may the peace of God be with you", as they boarded the bus for a late night flight back home.

Another couple were joining Ginger and me, along with 8 from other groups on the journey to Jordan, visiting Mt. Nebo, Petra, and Jerash.

MASADA, QUMRAN, AND THE DEAD SEA

On January 13, we boarded the bus to travel east, then south of Jerusalem across the Judaean desert to the Dead Sea area.

View of Masada from the road

Model of Masada showing the upper and lower buildings

First stop.....Masada.  High on a butte (1300 feet above the plain) near the south end of the Dead Sea stands Masada.  Originally built as a palace for Herod the Great.  Because of the difficulty to ascend to the top, Masada provided safety for its inhabitants.

And, it was self sufficient.  Water was provided by nearby springs.  Elaborate gardens provided fruits and vegetables.  Stables housed the goats and chickens.  Extensive food store rooms were cooled to almost freezing temperatures.  It is believed that Masada could store food for up to two years.


There were plenty of accommodations for the guards.  Herod would have all the luxuries of a king's palace... bath and sauna, swimming pool, verandas with expansive views.

In 70 AD, a group of Jewish rebels occupied Masada, fending off the Roman army for months.  Finally, the Romans built a massive ramp to access the western face.  When they entered Masada, they found all 900 + inhabitants had committed mass suicide rather than be enslaved and/or tortured by the Romans.

What a fantastic view (the landscape, too)

Steam Bath.  Intricate system with hot
water below the floor, and steam rising
through clay tubes in the walls.

Egyptian Wine Jar
(Will that be Cabernet, or Chardonnay?)  

Our guide told us that, as part of their early training, all Israeli military must visit and study at Masada.  This is to remind them of their heritage, and that they must fight to the death for their cause.

Accessing Masada today is available by Gondola or hiking.  As our time was short (and I'm not in that great of shape, anyway), we opted for the 5 minute ride in the Gondola.

Almost 1000 rebels lived in this oasis in the middle of the Judaean desert.  Reflecting on the notion that they would take their own lives, and the lives of their wives and children, rather than be enslaved was troubling to me.  Would I have taken the same path?  

One of many Ritual Baths
found throughout Qumran

On to Qumran, the area where the Dead Sea Scrolls were found.  Qumran is believed to have been inhabited by the Essenes, a Jewish sect who sought to find purity as they viewed the mainstream religious leaders to be corrupt.  Throughout the site are found Ritual Baths, suggesting that they may have practiced multiple daily purifications.

Qumran had a sophisticated water system.
This is a small aqueduct water supply.

There are some who believe that John the Baptist spent a year or more at Qumran with the Essenes.
The Essenes lived in caves surrounding the main working area, spent their time in prayer and in writing, and are credited with writing the Dead Sea Scrolls.   It is believed that the Essenes hid the scrolls in their caves when they saw the Romans coming to invade.

Replicas of the vessels that held the
Dead Sea Scrolls

One of the caves in which the Essenes may have lived

The first scroll was found in 1947 by a Bedouin shepherd boy when he was looking for a lost goat.  He thought the goat was in a cave, so he threw a stone into the dark cave.  No goat came out, but he heard the stone break something odd.  He brought his friend back to the cave, and they went inside together to find the vessel that housed a scroll.  They took the scroll to a souvenir dealer in Bethlehem, who gave them 5 shekels for the scroll.  When the boy's father heard about it, he visited the souvenir dealer, and was given another 94 shekels.

Mud Bath in the Dead SeaNext, a dip in the Dead Sea!!

Next, a dip in the Dead Sea!!!

The Dead Sea is 1400 feet BELOW sea level, and the lowest place on earth.  It is rich in salt and minerals.  Fish and other living organisms can not survive in its waters, hence the "Dead Sea".  For thousands of years, visitors have come to bath, believing the waters to have healing qualities.  Several cosmetic companies provide Dead Sea products to promote health and beauty.

The water is so rich in minerals that
you can't sink in the Dead Sea

The air temperature was in the low 60's, but the water temperature seemed to be in the high 60's to low 70's.  It was a refreshing respite from our regular travels.

Plus, the mud took 10 pounds off me, don't you think??

Ginger as a Camel Jockey

On the way back to Jerusalem, we stopped for a quick (and I mean QUICK) camel ride.

Ginger's new not so secret admirer

For $5, the camel takes you around the parking lot.  OK, it was a tourist trap.  But, it provided a lot of laughs and entertainment.









Once again, my bride was the "belle of the ball".  Even the camels were enamored with her beauty.  Check out the camel who couldn't resist planting a BIG WET kiss on her.







Tired, and now with smiles and tales to tell, we made our way back to Jerusalem for dinner and rest.

JERUSALEM

NOTE***THIS WAS, PERHAPS, OUR MOST ACTIVE DAY WITH LOTS OF PHOTOS AND INFORMATION.  I INTENTIONALLY DID NOT POST THIS ON THE DAY AFTER OUR VISIT BECAUSE OF THE VOLUME OF PHOTOS WE TOOK.  I AM POSTING THIS AS A DRAFT AND YOU MAY WANT TO CHECK BACK TO SEE EDITS.  IT MAY TAKE ME DAYS AFTER WE RETURN TO COMPLETE THIS, AND OTHER POSTS.

On Monday, January 12, we spent the entire day touring Jerusalem.  It was an amazing city.

Passing through Israeli security, we entered the Western Wall, or "Wailing Wall" area.  There were separate areas for women and men.  Men must wear something on their heads, so I donned a "yarmulke" and walked to the wall for prayer.

I stood, facing the wall where prayers have been said for more than 1600 years.  Written prayer requests are found within its cracks.  It was quite moving to watch and hear Orthodox Jewish men and women praying, sometimes VERY loudly, at the wall.

Above the Western Wall, on Mount Moriah, is the Temple Mount, or "Holy of Holies".  (We had to go through more rigorous security to enter this area).  On this site, it is believed that God manifested himself many times.  It is believed this is where God gathered dust to create Adam.  And, it is credited with the location where Abraham proved his love of God by taking Isaac to sacrifice him, then God provided a lamb instead.  God told David to buy the land and erect a temple.  From 691 CE to 1099 CE, the Temple Mount was controlled by Muslims.  The Crusaders controlled from 1099 to 1187, when the Muslims regained control.  Today, Muslims pray and teach in the courtyards and gardens.  Christians and Jews can only visit the outside and are not allowed to visit the inside, nor are they allowed to pray in the Temple Mount areas.



We were ushered out by 10 AM due to services beginning inside the Temple.  Only Muslims were allowed in.

The Pool of Bethesda (house of mercy) is described in the Gospel of John as the place where people went to be healed by the waters.  This is where Jesus healed a man on the Sabbath, commanding him to get up and walk. This act angered the high priests, causing them to challenge Jesus.







Next, we walked the Via Dolorosa, or "Way of Suffering".  This is believed to be the path that Jesus walked with the cross on His way to crucifixion.    Along the route are 14 stops, corresponding to the 14 Stations of the Cross in Catholicism.   The route ends at the Church of the Holy Sepulcher.  There was enormous information to take in while absorbing the moment.  So, please forgive if some of what I am about to recount suffers from inaccuracies.

The first stop was the Notre Dame Sion, Ecce Homo Basilica, and Church of the Flagellation.

Ginger standing on the road that Jesus would
have walked on His way to Crucifixion

This was likely a building next to the road on which Jesus
carried the cross.  We had a reading and song.

We entered into subterranean Jerusalem and got a chance to stand on and touch the actual Roman Road on which Jesus walked on His way to Crucifixion.

Possible stone of Calvary, the place Jesus was crucified

Inside the Church of the Holy Sepulchre are what is believed to be Calvary, the place on which Jesus was crucified, and the tomb in which he was laid.  Some historians and scholars believe the actual site was in the Garden Tomb area rather than here.  Both are considered very holy places.

Brad touching the stone of Calvary

Ginger touching what is believed to be the stone
on which Jesus' body was anointed.

We visited the Ethiopian church immediately adjacent to the Church of the Holy Sepulchre.

It is believed that Jesus was lowered through this hole.

Next was a short ride on the bus to what is believed to be the house of Caiaphas.  We entered a cavern that is believed to be where Jesus was lowered after he was delivered to Caiaphas for questioning.  As we stood in the cavern, the lights went out and we got a chance to experience how truly dark Jesus' final night was.

Cave believed to be where Jesus was lowered.

One of the crosses that appears within
the rock in the cave where Jesus was lowered.

On the walls are crosses that are believed to have appeared after Jesus' death.  No one knows how they came about.

Ginger on the "Teaching Steps",
one of the locations that Jesus spoke

Our final destination for the day was the ruins outside the western wall and the Teaching Steps.  Jesus is believed to have preached to His disciples on these steps.